The very first chicken-cooking technique I teach new CSA members

Hey Friends,

Are you ready to level up your chicken cooking experience? Let's dive right in and get you the skills and techniques you need to cook a better chicken!

The Science - How I Learned I've Been Cooking My Chicken Wrong All These Years

If you've ever cooked or eaten a chicken with bone-dry breast meat and stringy, "bloody-looking" thighs then you have experienced the challenge of cooking a whole chicken - the various muscle groups cook differently.

I knew that in theory but it never clicked in my head until recently. Cooking a whole chicken was a crapshoot - sometimes fantastic, sometimes not so good but never consistent results.

Here is where I went wrong for so many years. Let's take a look at a whole chicken first for reference:

Image: J. Kenzi Lopez-Alt

The legs seem so small, spindly and oddly sized while the breast meat is a big, dense brick.

It would make sense that to "fix" this uneven cooking issue, you need to focus the direct heat on the breast meat since the meat is denser and will take longer to cook. And on the flip-side, because the legs are so small and will cook so much faster, they need to cook slowly over indirect heat so the whole happy chicken reaches 160 degrees at the same time.

Makes sense right?

And when I pulled my roasted chicken from the oven and the breast meat was juicy and perfectly cooked I felt like a rockstar. Bring on the 'grams!

But then we'd sit down to dinner and the thighs would be chewy, bloody and under-done.

What was I doing wrong?

My Lightbulb Moment

The light bulb went off when I read this on a Serious Eats recipe one day (emphasis mine):

"Leg meat, on the other hand, must be cooked to at least 170°F (77°C). OK, that's a bit of an overstatement. It'll still be perfectly edible at around 160°F (71°C) (any lower than that and the abundant connective tissue will remain tough), but the juices will still be pink or red, and it will not have yet reached optimal tenderness. Unlike breast meat, leg meat contains plenty of collagen. Given a high enough temperature (160°F and above), and a long enough time (the 10 minutes it takes the legs to get from 160°F to 170°F), this collagen will begin to convert into rich gelatin, keeping the meat moist and juicy, even after the muscle fibers have shed most of their liquid."

Say what? I'm not trying to make the whole chicken reach the same 160 degree temperature throughout?

A finished chicken actually is best when the breast and thigh meat finish at different temperatures! (And keep in mind that when you remove the meat from the grill, carryover heat will continue to cook the chicken).

Only 150 for breast meat? I know the food police are squirming in their chairs but Kenji says it's OK.

The main point is to implement techniques that tilt the scale in your favor to reach both temperatures simultaneously.

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The Technique - Start with the Spatchcock

So we already know that a whole chicken is an awkward size and shape. To ensure even, consistent cooking we need an even, consistent shape.

Cue the spatchcock.

Spatchcocking a chicken simply refers to removing the backbone and pressing it flat. It's easy to do and is essentially the Marie Kondo folding technique of the chicken world :)

If as a CSA member, you only ever implement one chicken-cooking technique, please let it be the spatchcock!

It's easy to do. You will need:

• a whole chicken, patted dry

• a cutting board

• kitchen scissors or poultry shears

How to spatchcock

• Turn chicken breast-side down on the cutting board with the tail facing toward you

• Grasp the tail with your non-dominant hand then with the shears in your dominant hand, start your cut where the base of the tail meets the back.

• Cut from tail all the way up to the top of the neck. Cut along the other side of the tail up to the top of the neck leaving a ~1" strip of backbone.

• Remove backbone (place in a freezer bag to make stock another day). Spread open chicken like a book.

• Flip chicken over so the breast is facing up. Use the palm of your hand to press down in the center of the breast to flatten

You did it! It feels like a little extra work, I know but since it evens out the shape of the bird for more even cooking, you actually end up shaving off some cooking time.

I know that when written out, even the simplest things can seem complicated. If you're still not quite sure how to proceed, Rachel recommends this YouTube video:

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The Recipe - Peruvian-Style Chicken

Spatchcock Peruvian-Style Grilled Chicken

Why it's great:

• Spatchcock chicken cooks evenly

• Mild spice rub packs a huge flavor punch without being spicy (great for kids!)

• Grilled for that smokey flavor and to make the neighbors jealous

• Crispy skin and flavorful, perfectly cooked meat throughout

What's in the spice rub?

• 3 teaspoons kosher salt (recipe calls for 4 but that felt way too salty)

• 2 tablespoons ground cumin

• 2 tablespoons paprika

• 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper

• 3 medium cloves garlic, minced (about 1 tablespoon)

• 2 tablespoons white vinegar

• 2 tablespoons vegetable or canola oil

Cooking notes

Recipe calls for charcoal grill but we use a gas grill with great success and a hot (450-475 degree) oven works too.

On the grill, cook the chicken breast-side up over indirect heat. Orient the legs to point towards the hotter side of the grill.

Once the breast meat reaches 110 degrees, carefully flip chicken and place, skin side down, on hotter side of grill, with breasts pointed toward cooler side. Cover and cook until skin is crisp and an instant-read thermometer inserted into thickest part of breast registers 145 to 150°F. let rest 10 minutes before serving.

The recipe also includes notes for how to make a spicy, tangy, creamy green sauce but it is totally optional. The grilled chicken is divine in its own right.

GET THE RECIPE

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The Gear

An instant read digital thermometer ($20-$30) and a sturdy pair of poultry shears (~$25) are indispensable tools for crafting this recipe.

I know the poultry shears may feel like a uni-tasker in a minimalist world but sometimes the best recipes rely on a fusion between cooking technique and cooking technology.

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ThermoPro Thermometer ($~18)

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Oxo Poultry Shears ($26)

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That's it friend. This concludes Day 2 of our 5 days to cooking *a-freakin-mazing* chicken challenge.

We learned:

• the science behind why cooking a whole chicken is challenging

• why spatchcocking a chicken is worth your time

• the tools of the trade

I also shared my favorite recipe for grilled chicken - Peruvian-style grilled chicken.

I'll be back tomorrow with more science, techniques and recipes to make sure you never suffer from "blah chicken" again. See you then.

Cheers!
Katia

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No more blah chicken - uplevel your cooking skills

Just a quick post today to let you know we’re dedicating the week to learning more about the art and science of how to cook a better whole chicken in the summer months.

Here’s why...

Does this sound familiar to you?

I have these great aspirations for the whole chicken when I pull it from the freezer. But three days later, the chicken is thawed but, that passion and enthusiasm has waned.

Now I’m down to the wire and I’ve got to cook this stupid chicken before it goes bad (and it’s already making a mess in the meat drawer in the fridge).

I don’t have time for something complicated.

So I plop the bird in a skillet, half-heartedly sprinkle salt and pepper over the top. Maybe I rat around in the produce drawer for some herbs on the cusp of compost and half a forgotten lemon and tuck them in the cavity.

It goes in the oven at whatever temperature (350? 425?) and cooks until it “looks done”. I check the temperature and it says 160 (then I google to see if that is the right temp, because I can never remember these things) and the juices run clear. Seems good.

I pull it out of the oven and let it rest for ten minutes.

But then I go to plate the bird.

The breast meat is so dry it makes a literal pile of sawdust as I carve. And yet the thighs are somehow still pink and bloody-looking?!? And the meat is chewy like rubber bands.

How dare you betray me chicken!

I mean technically, I got it cooked before it went bad but it didn’t make for a very enjoyable cooking or eating experience.

No more blah chicken - Take your bird from “meh” to “a-freakin-mazing”!

It’s time to flip the switch on this story. Let’s learn some easy techniques and new recipes to totally uplevel your chicken cooking experience. Sometimes even the simplest tweaks will take your chicken from “meh” to “a-freakin-mazing”.

Seriously, when you open your share bag each month, I want you to be absolutely stoked when you see a whole chicken in there because you can’t wait to make something fantastic (and then you are still excited when the bird is actually thawed and it’s time to cook).

So, if you’re not feeling that kind of excitement, be sure to stay tuned for the recipes, tips and tricks coming at you this week. And you chicken-cooking pros can uplevel your skills too.

Get ready. The first recipes will be posted tomorrow. It’s going to be finger-lickin’ good.


Cheers!
Farmer Katia

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How to thaw farm-direct meats

You know, one of the biggest challenges new members bring to me about the CSA is just how to thaw meat. With the ultimate convenience and availability of fresh meat in the grocery store, it’s not uncommon to find home cooks that have never had to thaw meat or with experience limited to thawing a giant frozen turkey for Thanksgiving.

Benefits of buying frozen meat

For one, grass-finished beef is a seasonal product where I farm - the grass only grows for a few months of the year and for the meat to contain maximum nutritional value in the form of omega-3s and all that other good stuff - the animal needs to consume fresh, green grass up the the last bite.

The benefit of freezing meat means I can share a season’s worth of bounty all year long. Yay!

Frozen meat also gives our members the ability to control when and how they cook their meats. When buying fresh, there’s a pretty small window of a couple days where you need to cook (or freeze) meat or it will go bad. With frozen, you decide when that clock starts!

Finally, frozen meat is so much more sanitary to transport. When members pick up their shares, there is no worry about packages leaking and making a mess all over the bag or trunk of the car or cross-contaminating other groceries. In fact, every time a member picks up their share by bike and I watch them load all the cuts of meat into their backpack or pannier, I’m SOO happy we don’t sell fresh meat. A backpack full of raw chicken just sounds messy and gross!

How to thaw frozen meats

In a few days:

Place frozen meat in the bottom drawer of the fridge (in a tray/bowl to contain messes). Most ground meats, steaks/chops and smaller packages will thaw in 1-2 days. For larger cuts like whole chickens or roasts, plan for 2-3 days to thaw.

In a day:

Lots of folks will leave meat out on the counter to thaw overnight or while at work. I totally can’t endorse this from a food safety standard but I know folks do it anyway.

TIP: Make it a habit

“I plan two home-cooked dinner per week - Tuesday and Thursday. Other days we go out to eat, eat vegetarian or leftover meals. I put meat in the fridge to thaw on Sunday and Tuesday. It’s just habit now” -Kelly

In a few hours:

My preferred method for nights when I'm short on time. For wrapped cuts, remove outer paper wrap and place frozen meat in a ziploc bag. Squeeze to remove air and seal tightly. Place in a large bowl/pot filled with warm-hot (but not hot-hot!) water. Turn frequently and change out the water when it gets cool.

TIP: Multi-task

Infuse flavor and juiciness by thawing AND marinating (or brining) at the same time. I do this every week! Remove the wrapper and place frozen meat in a ziploc bag. Adding a marinade (all meats) will season the meat as it thaws and a brine (for chicken and pork) will make the meat juicy and keep it from drying out. Thaw in the fridge or in a bowl of water.

In a few minutes:

Yes, I know the microwave is speedy but please, please don’t defrost in the microwave -  it does such a disservice to your quality, pastured meats. Not only will it dry out the meat it also makes those weird cooked bits on the corners. The only time you can really skate by with this method is cooking ground beef for crumbles. Once added to the skillet and browned, you probably won’t notice any difference in the final dish.

Don’t thaw at all:

There’s a couple instances where you can get by without thawing meat in advance. The first is to cook frozen ground beef in a skillet. As long as you are able to remove any plastic wrapping first (which sometimes gets wedged into a crease in the meat when wrapped), scoot the beef around in the pan scraping off thawed bits as you go. Adding a few tablespoons of water or covering with a lid can speed up the process too.

The next cook-from-frozen technique involves using the Instant Pot. The meat doesn’t absorb flavor as well as it would if cooked from thawed but I know, sometimes the speed and convenience is worth the sacrifice. I most commonly cook chickens (and chicken backs/bones for stock) in the IP - especially if I’m going to be tossing the meat in a final sauce.

My absolute favorite snack for day trips and traveling

I’m about to dash out the door to chaperone an overnight field trip and I just had to share my absolute favorite, go-to item for my sack lunch today (and every time I travel). 

As you may already know, I’m a very detail-oriented person (hence why I handle the packing of CSA shares and all things spreadsheets - no offense Nathan). Anyway, when I’m packing for a trip, I want to make as many decisions as I can BEFORE I head out the door. Especially for food.

The last thing I want to do is wait until I have “hangry” kiddos to try to find someplace to eat. I’d much prefer to have my pre-packed meal all ready to go.

So what is my go-to snack/meal of choice?

Vietnamese-style Meatballs

They’re a portable, bite-sized, protein-filled snack, are delicious cold, keep well on hot days (I pack mine cold in a stainless thermos), and are so gosh darn tasty.

Ingredients:

• 1# ground beef

• 1# ground pork

• 3 eggs

• 4 Tablespoons sugar

• 3 Tablespoons corn starch

• 1 teaspoon ground pepper

• 3 Tablespoons fish sauce (I use Red Boat)

• 1 Tablespoons minced garlic

• 3 Tablespoons minced lemongrass 

• 1 Tablespoon minced ginger

• Optional - Sriracha or Gochujang paste, to taste

• 1 Tablespoon oil for pan-frying (I use coconut oil)

• Bowl of cool water 

Here’s 3 tools I use that monumentally speed up the process:

• A stand mixer (I use my Kitchenaid with the mixing blade)

• A 1-ounce ice cream scoop

• Squeeze tubes of garlic, ginger and lemongrass paste (I get them in the refrigerated section in the produce department)

• Bonus tip - double this recipe and put half the meatballs in the freezer. Your future self will thank you.

Steps:

1. Preheat oven to 375 degrees.

2. Add all ingredients to the bowl of the stand mixer. Mix on medium speed for 5 minutes (or by hand for 10 full minutes). You are looking for a meat paste-like consistency with no individually visible particles. The mixture will be very wet.

3. Use an ice cream scoop to portion out all the meatball mixture. Place pre-portioned mixture on a plate or tray.

4. When all meat is portioned, dip your hands in a cereal bowl filled with cool water. Gently roll the meatballs between your hands to make a smooth, shiny ball. If your hands get tacky or the meatball starts to stick, dip your hands again. 

5. Preheat oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Pan-fry meatballs, turning several times until browned. Remove browned meatballs to a rimmed baking sheet. Repeat until all meatballs are browned.

6. Bake meatballs at 375 degrees for 15 minutes to cook through.

7. Serve immediately or cool thoroughly and store in the fridge for a week or freeze for future adventures.

I originally learned the technique for these meatballs from this Snapguide.